Construction of quality cabinetry and furniture
It is amazing how many different methods you can find to build a cabinet or a piece of furniture. It is only fair that you know some of the methods I employ in the construction of the quality pieces that leave my shop. First of all, I take great pride in my work, and I value my reputation!
Having said that, nothing can beat good planning. After listening carefully to just what you have in mind, I start out trying to think of all the details that need to be taken into account in the construction of the piece(s) being built. Aided by the computer and cabinet designing software, I can work to perfect what we've envisioned, and see renderings of what the finished project will look like. It is a tremendous help to be able to see visually the finished project. After we've settled on a great design, it is time to start on the construction of the project you've been thinking about.
All of my face frames are constructed using pocket screws. This technique is much more time consuming than the corrugated fasteners that most shops use in construction of face frames. Although I've got a pneumatic corrugated fastener gun, it just does not build a good face frame. I use the Kreg jig, which drills holes at a precise angle at both ends on the back side of every rail. The joint is then glued, clamped, and screwed together with 1 1/4" face frame screws. The resulting joint is exceptionally strong, and is always square! Once the face frames are built, they are sanded and set aside waiting for the construction of the boxes.
If the sides/ends of the cabinets are raised panels or flat panels, my client has two options. I offer the traditional face frame, in which the joint between the two shows slightly. Probably 98% of cabinets are built this way. But, for those who don't want to see that joint, I offer a mitered corner option. Although the mitered corner is an additional cost, it certainly does yield a very nice finished look. The picture on the left illustrates the mitered corner option.
I then turn my attention to the construction of the structural components of the actual cabinet. All sides and shelves of my cabinetry are at least 5/8" plywood. Depending on the size and use of the cabinetry, I'll use 5/8" or 3/4" plywood. Depending on the desires of the client, the plywood can be in any number of veneers. Particle board is never found in any of my cabinets! Once a 1/4" back is added to the box, the face frames are installed. I use liberal glue and minimal nails to attach the face frames to the cabinet boxes. Every nail hole detracts from the beauty of the finished cabinet! Where possible, I like to use hidden pocket screws to attach the face frames to the boxes. In addition, wooden biscuits are added to aid in the alignmet of the face frames with the cabinets. Most shops just nail the face frames to the cabinets with a little glue, but every nail hole detracts from the beauty of the wood that YOU CHOSE because you like that particular wood. If my client chooses a particular wood, then they don't want to see it adorned with nail holes!
My clients have the option of adjustable or fixed shelving, interior drawers or sliding shelves of any size or configuration, lazy susans, and flip down trays. Every cabinet I build is a custom cabinet, and should be just what the client has dreamed about!
Once the face frames have been added to the cabinets, it is time to begin on the drawers, doors, and drawer fronts. I can provide most any profile you've ever seen in doors and drawer fronts. If you want something I don't have readily available, I'll find a way to get it for you. If you want arched panels, you can have them. If you want flat panels, we can do that. If you are going to want your cabinets painted, MDF (medium density fiberboard) is just what you need. This wood product will never crack, split, or warp, and is far superior to real wood for raised panels where the final result will be painted. You have multiple choices in door and drawer hardware, as well. I'll use any hinge you want to use, as well as any type of drawer hardware. Some drawers lend themselves to full-extension hardware, which is available as an option on any drawer. In short, we can do whatever you want, and are happy to do it!
Once everything is built, it is time to begin the finishing process. Whatever finish you have in mind can be done by Byron. Whether it be a special stain, a multi-step glazed finish, a natural look, or a solid color paint, your cabinets are finished as a piece of fine furniture. All surfaces are carefully sanded and finished with great care attention to detail. I carefully sand between every step of the process to assure a fine furniture-quality finish. Most cabinets are finished with three coats of pre-catalyzed lacquer to assure a fine long-lasting finish. I've experimented with all manners of finishes, and feel that the precatalyzed lacquer gives the best all around finish when taking into account the ability to give good protection, highlight the natural beauty of the wood, and be repaired in the unlikely event you have a difficulty down the road. Your work is then carefully packed up and delivered to your home and installed at your convenience! I do all I can to assure your delightful satisfaction with every piece I build.
When you choose Byron W. Clinkingbeard, you choose many years of experience in both the design and construction of fine furniture and cabinetry. When only the best will do, then call only the best. You will be pleasantly surprised at how reasonable quality cabinetry and furniture can be. Because I operate a small shop with low overhead, I can create what you've only been dreaming of at a price that might surprise you! Give me a call and let me come and talk with you!
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